As Namba Ramen & Sushi’s chef-owner Koko proves, sushi is all about the details—and can take decades to perfect.

Growing up in Thailand, Pitak “Koko” Hermkhunthod wasn’t trained to be a chef. Even though his parents owned a restaurant and his grandmother was a stellar home cook, they wanted more for him. Koko became an electrical engineer, but a trip to Japan at age 22 opened his eyes.

Our food editor selects the best dishes in Southwest Florida. BY DOROTHEA HUNTER SÖNNE Even though his family ran a restaurant in his native Thailand, it took a trip to Japan to make Pitak “Koko” Hermkhunthod want to pursue that line of work. After five years training in the island